To be perfectly honest I'm amazed this worked. I'll likely be using the upper control arm mount bracket to adjust static camber by means of shims. As such, no shims will be the most camber you can throw at the thing, and I have to design accordingly. Previously I had been doing all my design at 0 inclination. Went in, changed my mates around to set the RF wheel and tire at -4 camber, and bam! All the a-arms automatically regenerated and no mates fell apart. No parts flew off into infinity! Now I can go change my track width, max static camber, upright geometry, or chassis geometry, and everything should automatically regenerate to fit. Beaut!
And yes, I realize that wheel-side upper control arm pickup is going to bind in full droop. It's all placeholder.
What's next? Tried getting some of the rudimentary geometry into the OptimumK demo, but had some issues. Cool software but to be honest it doesn't seem very robust. Don't think I'll be shelling out $1700 for it just yet! I'll have to think of a better way. Now that I think of it, for simple stuff where I don't have any anti-___ geometry I could probably make a simple front-view sketch in CAD and do some simple analysis that way. That might be perfect! Nice!
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Beginnings of the RF suspension linkage
Booya! Got some of the RF a-arms set up this evening.
It pays off big time, to set this shit up right in advance. The tube end inserts are free to float around the wheel-side and chassis-side ball joints, and then are mated so they are coaxial. The actual individual tubes that comprise each a-arm are made to automatically generate at the right length between the chassis-side and wheel-side insert. That way you can change static camber, ride height, track width, whatever... and all the a-arms regenerate to the exact appropriate size. In theory anyway, assuming the heap of mates that comprise the thing don't all explode, as they have a tendency of doing.
The tube inserts are my own design, rather than the stuff you'd buy at Chassis Shop. The latter are decent, but don't have flats machined on them for a wrench to tighten up the jam nuts, and are kind of a loose fit in the actual tubes. Mine also have a nice 0.050" chamfer on them for a J-bevel weld, or full bevel if I chamfer the end of the tube as well.
Yes, that does put the IC (instant center) at an interesting location. But that may be exactly what I want. If not, it's easy enough to change. Again, in theory if I change the chassis points everything should auto update. For now, I'm gonna pass the hell out.
It pays off big time, to set this shit up right in advance. The tube end inserts are free to float around the wheel-side and chassis-side ball joints, and then are mated so they are coaxial. The actual individual tubes that comprise each a-arm are made to automatically generate at the right length between the chassis-side and wheel-side insert. That way you can change static camber, ride height, track width, whatever... and all the a-arms regenerate to the exact appropriate size. In theory anyway, assuming the heap of mates that comprise the thing don't all explode, as they have a tendency of doing.
The tube inserts are my own design, rather than the stuff you'd buy at Chassis Shop. The latter are decent, but don't have flats machined on them for a wrench to tighten up the jam nuts, and are kind of a loose fit in the actual tubes. Mine also have a nice 0.050" chamfer on them for a J-bevel weld, or full bevel if I chamfer the end of the tube as well.
Yes, that does put the IC (instant center) at an interesting location. But that may be exactly what I want. If not, it's easy enough to change. Again, in theory if I change the chassis points everything should auto update. For now, I'm gonna pass the hell out.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Kinematic objectives
Allright. Let's go back, take a look at our general suspension objectives and come up with a strategy for achieving said goals by use of kinematics.
Just so we're clear on terminology here...
As opposed to...
Kinematics I focus on inclination and steer angles of the tire relative to the ground (for obvious reasons) as well as the pitch and roll attitude of the chassis which drives it, and has a big effect on aero.
Kinetics I focus on distribution of steady state tire loads, and controlling load variation on the sprung and unsprung masses.
Anyway. Suspension objectives were:
First item, the grip levels... I haven't picked a tire yet so I can't go after static and dynamic camber, dynamic change in VSAL, etc.
As far as the rest go though, I'm thinking minimizing ___-steer (bump-steer, roll-steer) is going to be F essential. Bump steer in particular, as I'm thinking "bump" inputs from road undulations and rapid application of the brakes would be the most abrupt wheel transition, with roll inputs being a bit smoother. Even with that, I know the ___-steer curves will be different at static ride, at full roll, full pitch, etc.
This is gonna be a pain in the ass.
Just so we're clear on terminology here...
kin⋅e⋅mat⋅ics
–noun (used with a singular verb) Physics.
1. the branch of mechanics that deals with pure motion, without reference to the masses or forces involved in it.
As opposed to...
ki⋅net⋅ics
–noun (used with a singular verb) Physics.
the branch of mechanics that deals with the actions of forces in producing or changing the motion of masses.
Kinematics I focus on inclination and steer angles of the tire relative to the ground (for obvious reasons) as well as the pitch and roll attitude of the chassis which drives it, and has a big effect on aero.
Kinetics I focus on distribution of steady state tire loads, and controlling load variation on the sprung and unsprung masses.
Anyway. Suspension objectives were:
- High grip levels in cornering, trail-brake entry, and on-throttle exit
- Predictable, smooth transitions between corner phases
- Predictable, smooth reaction to bumps and load transfer
- Appropriate range of adjustment
- Quick method of changing chassis parameters
As far as the rest go though, I'm thinking minimizing ___-steer (bump-steer, roll-steer) is going to be F essential. Bump steer in particular, as I'm thinking "bump" inputs from road undulations and rapid application of the brakes would be the most abrupt wheel transition, with roll inputs being a bit smoother. Even with that, I know the ___-steer curves will be different at static ride, at full roll, full pitch, etc.
This is gonna be a pain in the ass.
General design drivers
I suppose this should have come earlier, and I don't think I have mentioned it before.
It is a key consideration though to realize what exactly is driving the design of your vehicle. Which are the independent variables, which are the dependent?
It's my feeling that there are three systems on the car that are independent and drive everything else. From a performance standpoint, everything else on the car has to exist to maximize the potential of these three things. They are:
The above is why I fundamentally disagree with the notion of setting a car up to have the absolute maximum theoretical grip level. If you throw an insane amount of camber at a tire just because that's where maximum grip is, you ride that line too long and you blow a tire and end you race. Likewise, you make the car handle like shit and you're taxing the driver's time with reacting to everything the car does, rather than freeing him up to drive it.
It is a key consideration though to realize what exactly is driving the design of your vehicle. Which are the independent variables, which are the dependent?
It's my feeling that there are three systems on the car that are independent and drive everything else. From a performance standpoint, everything else on the car has to exist to maximize the potential of these three things. They are:
- The driver
- Sufficient visibility to be aware of surroundings and pick the racing line
- Control ergonomics
- Linear, predictable feel to the vehicle's handling
- Etc...
- The engine
- Come to temperature quickly
- Stay in a sustainable range of operating temperature
- Supply air and evacuate exhaust gas at maximum rate
- Maximize area under the torque curve
- Etc...
- The tires
- Come to temperature quickly
- Keep footprint planted and oriented as optimally as possible through all handling
- Minimize over-stressing carcass to provide adequate durability
- Minimize over-stressing tread to prevent graining, feather, blading, etc
- Minimize load variation
- Etc...
The above is why I fundamentally disagree with the notion of setting a car up to have the absolute maximum theoretical grip level. If you throw an insane amount of camber at a tire just because that's where maximum grip is, you ride that line too long and you blow a tire and end you race. Likewise, you make the car handle like shit and you're taxing the driver's time with reacting to everything the car does, rather than freeing him up to drive it.
General suspension goals
Gettin' to be about that time to outline objectives for suspension design, so I have a roadmap of what to target. Figured I'd write this up while my shrimp dethaw (for a delicious stir fry in a bit!).
I had a discussion with a coworker the other day, as we were discussing racecar stability issues. Among other things, I believe his comment was to the effect that the race engineers were going to set up the car for maximum possible grip, and then let the (very well paid) driver deal with it and get the car around the track, even if the car drives poorly.
I respectfully disagree (SB!), or at least that will not be my MO. Maybe that would work for a qualifying setup, but the race is what matters and it's not like you're going to be changing your kinematic package between Saturday and Sunday.
Drivers are human. I don't care if it's Kyle Busch or Felipe Massa or Joe Blow. Eventually they deviate from perfection, and when grip limited if it's bad enough that means you're ending the race one way or another, flying into the wall, another car, a gravel trap, or what have you. Chance of screwing up royally will generally increase with:
Edit - Now that I think of it, Dale Jr. may have proven this point a few times in the 2008 NSCS season. I seem to remember a few times he drove the hell out of the car, right up near the wall, at the limit... moved forward in position... but inevitably something went awry from pushing too hard and it cost him. The other HMS drivers seem to be able to back off ultimate pace a bit and conserve their equipment until the end and/or when they really need it.
If your car isn't predictable and drives like absolute shit, there's no way you're going to feel comfortable driving as hard as if it were smooth. Your race pace might only be 8-tenths instead of 9. Plus, every fraction of a second you're spending correcting a poorly handling car, is time off your perfect lap.
The point being, it makes sense to me that you want to make the car as pleasant and easy to drive as possible. Even if it isn't the absolute maximum theoretically possible level of grip, and might have a longer "perfect" lap time, over the course of a race the lower probability of the driver blowing a braking zone or corner... and the smaller sum of small errors over a long race, would probably make up for it.
As such, suspension goals (kinematic and kinetic) will include:
How to achieve those goals with kinematics (linkage movement) and kinetics (springs, bars, dampers)... will come up next. Now it's time to prepare my shrimp.
I had a discussion with a coworker the other day, as we were discussing racecar stability issues. Among other things, I believe his comment was to the effect that the race engineers were going to set up the car for maximum possible grip, and then let the (very well paid) driver deal with it and get the car around the track, even if the car drives poorly.
I respectfully disagree (SB!), or at least that will not be my MO. Maybe that would work for a qualifying setup, but the race is what matters and it's not like you're going to be changing your kinematic package between Saturday and Sunday.
Drivers are human. I don't care if it's Kyle Busch or Felipe Massa or Joe Blow. Eventually they deviate from perfection, and when grip limited if it's bad enough that means you're ending the race one way or another, flying into the wall, another car, a gravel trap, or what have you. Chance of screwing up royally will generally increase with:
- Long duration races (a matter of probability)
- Pushing your or the machine's limit closer to 10-tenths (decreases margin for error or deviation)
- Having someone fighting you for position (have to mentally process more things)
- Having an unpredictable, twitchy, inconsistent race car (increases inherent deviation and variation from the perfect lap)
Edit - Now that I think of it, Dale Jr. may have proven this point a few times in the 2008 NSCS season. I seem to remember a few times he drove the hell out of the car, right up near the wall, at the limit... moved forward in position... but inevitably something went awry from pushing too hard and it cost him. The other HMS drivers seem to be able to back off ultimate pace a bit and conserve their equipment until the end and/or when they really need it.
If your car isn't predictable and drives like absolute shit, there's no way you're going to feel comfortable driving as hard as if it were smooth. Your race pace might only be 8-tenths instead of 9. Plus, every fraction of a second you're spending correcting a poorly handling car, is time off your perfect lap.
The point being, it makes sense to me that you want to make the car as pleasant and easy to drive as possible. Even if it isn't the absolute maximum theoretically possible level of grip, and might have a longer "perfect" lap time, over the course of a race the lower probability of the driver blowing a braking zone or corner... and the smaller sum of small errors over a long race, would probably make up for it.
As such, suspension goals (kinematic and kinetic) will include:
- High grip levels in cornering, trail-brake entry, and on-throttle exit
- Predictable, smooth transitions between corner phases
- Predictable, smooth reaction to bumps and load transfer
- Appropriate range of adjustment
- Quick method of changing chassis parameters
How to achieve those goals with kinematics (linkage movement) and kinetics (springs, bars, dampers)... will come up next. Now it's time to prepare my shrimp.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
#@*& Calipers!!
Decided to go back and make a little more accurate version of my DynaPro CAD model. Good thing I did! As it turns out I had gotten a dimension wrong. I knew that caliper clearance to the wheel looked too good.
With the revision, my minimum clearance from the caliper to the interior of the wheel shrunk down to about 0.125" This had been a recurring theme on our FSAE cars, though I believe there were instances of clearance between caliper, upright and wheel being less than that. Even negative!
That's a bit close for comfort, not knowing how much wheel and bearing deflection to expect! That was using the DynaPro caliper spec'd for a 0.81" wide ULHP-30 rotor at 10.75" OD... made some changes and went with a 0.75" wide UL-30 rotor at 10.50" OD and I get up to 0.25" clearance, which I'm more comfortable with.
The caliper is spec'd for a 0.81" wide rotor, but I can't see this being much of an issue. Pads and disc wear down anyway!
On the plus side, the caliper looks damn good now. Even cut some threads on the hub (to be suppressed for any real work) to illustrate...
With the revision, my minimum clearance from the caliper to the interior of the wheel shrunk down to about 0.125" This had been a recurring theme on our FSAE cars, though I believe there were instances of clearance between caliper, upright and wheel being less than that. Even negative!
That's a bit close for comfort, not knowing how much wheel and bearing deflection to expect! That was using the DynaPro caliper spec'd for a 0.81" wide ULHP-30 rotor at 10.75" OD... made some changes and went with a 0.75" wide UL-30 rotor at 10.50" OD and I get up to 0.25" clearance, which I'm more comfortable with.
The caliper is spec'd for a 0.81" wide rotor, but I can't see this being much of an issue. Pads and disc wear down anyway!
On the plus side, the caliper looks damn good now. Even cut some threads on the hub (to be suppressed for any real work) to illustrate...
Rear wheel assembly preview
Now, usually, I don't do this but uh... go 'head on and break 'em off with a lil' preview of the remix...
Bam!
Got to keep the same upright. At the moment I can use the same design on the RF, RR, LR, and LF. Of course this is before even playing with suspension geometry at all so things can change. But at least I haven't had to completely redo things. If I can use the same upright and same hub that saves at least a few hours (3-5?) of programming, setup, and tool changeover time. With CNC time at $65-120 / hr, that adds up quickly!
A small (currently aluminum) adapter piece fits the radial caliper mounts on the upright, and meets up with the DynaPro Single. Yes, it's single shear. I'm generally not proud of such things. I'll evaluate how much that twists later in FEA but given that everything is packaged pretty tightly it might not be bad. The adapter piece is also pretty simple and machineable. Three setups tops, all use a standard vice and quick stop. The upright for that matter shouldn't take more than 5, again with a standard vice setup. No special fixtures! Nice large corner radii in the pockets, with short length-to-tool-diameter ratios should mean high metal removal rates.
Right now I have the hub drive flange set up to accept a standard tripod housing, in this case from Taylor Race. They make good stuff! Craig and Scott are also very helpful.
The brake disc is a bit bigger than I thought. F'in heavy. They have a drilled one but I am wary of those. Still lighter than the vented front rotor, but not by much! I'll have to think of a good way to direct some cooling to it... as well as maybe evaluate something smaller. That's for tomorrow night.
Bam!
Got to keep the same upright. At the moment I can use the same design on the RF, RR, LR, and LF. Of course this is before even playing with suspension geometry at all so things can change. But at least I haven't had to completely redo things. If I can use the same upright and same hub that saves at least a few hours (3-5?) of programming, setup, and tool changeover time. With CNC time at $65-120 / hr, that adds up quickly!
A small (currently aluminum) adapter piece fits the radial caliper mounts on the upright, and meets up with the DynaPro Single. Yes, it's single shear. I'm generally not proud of such things. I'll evaluate how much that twists later in FEA but given that everything is packaged pretty tightly it might not be bad. The adapter piece is also pretty simple and machineable. Three setups tops, all use a standard vice and quick stop. The upright for that matter shouldn't take more than 5, again with a standard vice setup. No special fixtures! Nice large corner radii in the pockets, with short length-to-tool-diameter ratios should mean high metal removal rates.
Right now I have the hub drive flange set up to accept a standard tripod housing, in this case from Taylor Race. They make good stuff! Craig and Scott are also very helpful.
The brake disc is a bit bigger than I thought. F'in heavy. They have a drilled one but I am wary of those. Still lighter than the vented front rotor, but not by much! I'll have to think of a good way to direct some cooling to it... as well as maybe evaluate something smaller. That's for tomorrow night.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Rear brakes
Jumping back and forth between front suspension and rear wheel assembly...
According to my quick and dirty brake calculations, outboard 2-piston calipers should be adequate for the rear. To keep things consistent on the car that means Wilwood, which pretty much means Billet DynaPro Single.
Not a bad CAD model if I say so myself, especially for an hour and a half and only two drawings to go from on the Wilwood site!
The DynaPro Single is the successor to the Dynalite Single, which we had used for many years on our FSAE cars (2 outboard on the front, 1 inboard on the rear on the differential). The Dynalite definitely had some rigidity issues and when pressurized and putting force on the rotor you could watch it flex significantly! May have been part of the reason we had trouble getting really good solid brake feel. Wilwood claims to have addressed the flex issue in the DynaPro Single. I hope so!
Likely will be using solid, relatively thin discs at the rear.
Ideally I'd be able to use the same L/R upright on the rear as the front, though the mounting style of the DPS may render that impossible. We shall see, may tinker around with that in CAD later tonight.
According to my quick and dirty brake calculations, outboard 2-piston calipers should be adequate for the rear. To keep things consistent on the car that means Wilwood, which pretty much means Billet DynaPro Single.
Not a bad CAD model if I say so myself, especially for an hour and a half and only two drawings to go from on the Wilwood site!
The DynaPro Single is the successor to the Dynalite Single, which we had used for many years on our FSAE cars (2 outboard on the front, 1 inboard on the rear on the differential). The Dynalite definitely had some rigidity issues and when pressurized and putting force on the rotor you could watch it flex significantly! May have been part of the reason we had trouble getting really good solid brake feel. Wilwood claims to have addressed the flex issue in the DynaPro Single. I hope so!
Likely will be using solid, relatively thin discs at the rear.
Ideally I'd be able to use the same L/R upright on the rear as the front, though the mounting style of the DPS may render that impossible. We shall see, may tinker around with that in CAD later tonight.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Doing this the legit way is both a pain in the ass, and requires much RAM
...the legit way being detailing down to the nut-and-bolt level. I give a lot of credit to the '04 team for having been as detailed as they were. A tradition which never caught on!
Speaking of which, at the moment I'm leaning toward rod-end bearings chassis-side. I had thought about using sphericals all around - they're cheaper - but they're definitely more difficult to set up and replace. I will be using sphericals at the wheel side, since we all know putting rod-ends in bending is the work of Satan and will condemn you to an eternity in Hell. Or at least that's what the FSAE judges would lead you to believe!
Bolts are a less obvious choice than one might think. It's tempting to just use AN hardware all around. But I'm sure we've all been in a situation where you go to put your AN suspension hardware into your closely toleranced bearings and spacers only to find they're all undersized! Generic socket head cap screws tend to be the same way. Then you get slop in your suspension, the bolt bangs around in there, and if you're using aluminum spacers it will inevitably lose its shape and gall or seize up. Seriously, who hasn't had that happen to them at least once?
There are NAS series fasteners which are close tolerance for such precision shear applications, and at the moment I will be using those. Likewise I will be using stainless top hat spacers all around. No rust, and no fumbling around like you would with normal barrel spacers. I'll take the small weight penalty over aluminum for the added hardness!
Speaking of which, at the moment I'm leaning toward rod-end bearings chassis-side. I had thought about using sphericals all around - they're cheaper - but they're definitely more difficult to set up and replace. I will be using sphericals at the wheel side, since we all know putting rod-ends in bending is the work of Satan and will condemn you to an eternity in Hell. Or at least that's what the FSAE judges would lead you to believe!
Bolts are a less obvious choice than one might think. It's tempting to just use AN hardware all around. But I'm sure we've all been in a situation where you go to put your AN suspension hardware into your closely toleranced bearings and spacers only to find they're all undersized! Generic socket head cap screws tend to be the same way. Then you get slop in your suspension, the bolt bangs around in there, and if you're using aluminum spacers it will inevitably lose its shape and gall or seize up. Seriously, who hasn't had that happen to them at least once?
There are NAS series fasteners which are close tolerance for such precision shear applications, and at the moment I will be using those. Likewise I will be using stainless top hat spacers all around. No rust, and no fumbling around like you would with normal barrel spacers. I'll take the small weight penalty over aluminum for the added hardness!
Full brake ducting
Tenative layout for full brake ducting. The carbon work makes up a 3-piece assembly, consisting of a velocity stack at the inlet, a center piece, and the piece that brings the air to the center of the upright. These would be fabricated separately and then bonded together.
Kind of looks like a leaf blower.
At a minimum, it's manufacturable.
Kind of looks like a leaf blower.
At a minimum, it's manufacturable.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Even more progress!
Added the beginnings of some brake ducting, though I have to figure out yet how to get from this simple shroud to a location in the airstream with a bit larger diameter inlet. Shouldn't be too bad. I'm also tempted to route some cooling to blast directly on the pads.
Also added a sheet metal.. contraption.. to the spare brake caliper mounts on the front face of the upright. I can use this to mount my wheel speed sensor (shown) as well as an IR sensor for the rotors (not shown).
This assumes I can get my suspension geometry right so I can use one bracket at the top of the upright for both the steering pickup and the upper control arm pickup. Again, shouldn't be too bad.
Also added a sheet metal.. contraption.. to the spare brake caliper mounts on the front face of the upright. I can use this to mount my wheel speed sensor (shown) as well as an IR sensor for the rotors (not shown).
This assumes I can get my suspension geometry right so I can use one bracket at the top of the upright for both the steering pickup and the upper control arm pickup. Again, shouldn't be too bad.
Considerable progress on spindle assembly...
Bam!
Had to rework a good bit of the upright so I could make modifications without a million constraints and sketch values erroring out.
Spread the bearings a bit wider, and redid everything for the Wilwood DynaPro caliper. 1.5" pistons up front with a 0.81" x 10.75" dia straight vane, vented disc. Top hat will be as simple as I can make it, likely a plate of AL2024 for retained strength at high temperature.
Added a wheel for a Hall effect wheel speed sensor. I may make it a simpler flat plate version, depending on how exactly I want to mount the damn thing. At this point I need to figure out how I'm going to mount and package (a) the wheel speed sensor, (b) the brake ducting, and (c) ideally an IR sensor for the rotors.
Had to rework a good bit of the upright so I could make modifications without a million constraints and sketch values erroring out.
Spread the bearings a bit wider, and redid everything for the Wilwood DynaPro caliper. 1.5" pistons up front with a 0.81" x 10.75" dia straight vane, vented disc. Top hat will be as simple as I can make it, likely a plate of AL2024 for retained strength at high temperature.
Added a wheel for a Hall effect wheel speed sensor. I may make it a simpler flat plate version, depending on how exactly I want to mount the damn thing. At this point I need to figure out how I'm going to mount and package (a) the wheel speed sensor, (b) the brake ducting, and (c) ideally an IR sensor for the rotors.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Mx - Also not a joke
On the note of overlooked forces and moments: overturning moment (Mx). Previously we saw how Mz was important as the tire moments can be translated to an understeer moment on the car, which effectively "robs" the front axle of lateral force.
What is overturning moment? Moment about the SAE x-axis (forward/back) produced by the tire. This is NOT just the moment created by the Fy vector crossed with the loaded radius. Explanation later...
Generally though, it would appear that if you assume your track widths are fixed, or only dependent on lateral "scrub" of the suspension... your predicted lateral load transfer will be low. Mx is the culprit. Check it.
We start on the left, in a cornering scenario. There's the normal load transfer we're familiar with, but then there's also a non-zero overturning moment at each tire. Since everything's all connected anyway, we could also sum all the Mx acting on the chassis and dump it in with the rolling and non-rolling moments we're already familiar with, generated by inertial chassis forces. Since things are in equilibrium, that moment has to be reacted by a change in Fz at the four wheels. In this example, it increases load on the outside tires. What I'm not sure of, and I'm open to comments, is how the tire Mx and that increase in LLT is distributed among the axles... ie if its a function of roll center height relative to the CG or what.
The other way of thinking about this is as follows: Your track width isn't constant! Certainly not if defining track width to be the distance between the effective center of each tire footprint. As the tire deflects from camber and lateral force the footprint does move around relative to the chassis, and it can shorten up or shift the track at an axle and destabilize the car a bit.
Think about that for aggressive camber curves and compliant tires...
What is overturning moment? Moment about the SAE x-axis (forward/back) produced by the tire. This is NOT just the moment created by the Fy vector crossed with the loaded radius. Explanation later...
Generally though, it would appear that if you assume your track widths are fixed, or only dependent on lateral "scrub" of the suspension... your predicted lateral load transfer will be low. Mx is the culprit. Check it.
We start on the left, in a cornering scenario. There's the normal load transfer we're familiar with, but then there's also a non-zero overturning moment at each tire. Since everything's all connected anyway, we could also sum all the Mx acting on the chassis and dump it in with the rolling and non-rolling moments we're already familiar with, generated by inertial chassis forces. Since things are in equilibrium, that moment has to be reacted by a change in Fz at the four wheels. In this example, it increases load on the outside tires. What I'm not sure of, and I'm open to comments, is how the tire Mx and that increase in LLT is distributed among the axles... ie if its a function of roll center height relative to the CG or what.
The other way of thinking about this is as follows: Your track width isn't constant! Certainly not if defining track width to be the distance between the effective center of each tire footprint. As the tire deflects from camber and lateral force the footprint does move around relative to the chassis, and it can shorten up or shift the track at an axle and destabilize the car a bit.
Think about that for aggressive camber curves and compliant tires...
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Back at it - Brakes
Finally got some things resolved and can get back into design. Originally I had been looking at using 4-piston AP calipers on the front. Now that I've gone back and read the rules again it would appear that
- On any caliper on a F1000 car, all pistons must be the same bore diameter.
- The variety of 4-pistons I had been looking at from AP are all staggered, i.e. with a leading and trailing piston of different bore diameter (the way it should be!).
- Alcon also only offers staggered 4-pistons.
- I may be forced to go with 4-piston Wilwood Billet Dynalite Pro's
- ...I may still look into Brembo. Edit - Having looked through their catalog is appears their pistons are staggered as well.
- Performance Friction calipers look enormous.
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